Modern Ayurvedic Eats VOL 2 • 2021
My friend, Dion, who loves to surf, has told me about this little town called Todos Santos in Mexico for a while now. I finally took up his invitation and went with him and my friend Alura. I flew to the airport in Cabo, rented a small car, and began my adventure.
Todos Santos is just an hour and a half drive from popular Los Cabos in Mexico’s Baja California Sur, but this small-town with its laid-back vibe feels a world away. The drive was pretty easy for the most part. One piece of advice I got from the car rental company was to watch out for the cows because they are the same color as the road!
When I arrived in Todos Santos I met Dion at a local restaurant called Miguel's. We had a quick bite and I tried their famous Chile Relleno. Chile Rellenos (or ‘stuffed peppers‘ in English) are a traditional Mexican dish made from roasted poblano peppers, stuffed with cheese, then coated in a fluffy egg batter and fried until golden brown. They’re served with a simple red or green salsa. Miguel made me a vegetarian Chile Relleno and I fell in love with the taste of roasted poblano pepper and I couldn't wait to make my own version at home.
After our quick bite, Dion took Alura and I for a drive, giving us a local tour showing us where to go and what to see. I am actually so baffled by Todos Santos because it seems so off the beaten path yet it is only an hour from Cabo, a super touristy and developed vacation spot! Todos Santos feels removed from it all, which of course, made Dion happy to share his little gem spot with me. It’s rare to find a beach town with near-perfect weather, white sand beaches, amazing food and friendly local residents where the easy-going, small-town vibe still remains.
After getting our bearings down I had mapped out the things and places I wanted to visit and do in the next few days. From the local produce market to surfer's beach, I had hoped I had enough time to see it all.
Coffee Shop Las Tunas
Many roads in Todos Santos are dirt roads. It was a joy to find this hidden coffee/breakfast spot off the beaten path. This little coffee shop serves some fresh, clean, and beautifully presented food in a modern garden setting. They also have Airbnb rentals next to the coffee shop. Although the menu is small, the quality of food is amazing and the prices are also great. Almond milk and oat milk are an option? Wow! I couldn't ask for more. I had an avocado toast...I know, but I love to see how each place takes on something I have all the time. The avocado toast was done up very well and came served with a fresh garden salad. Additionally, it was paired with an in-house salsa – Salsa Macha, which adds good flavor to the toast.
Swimming and/or surfing in Pescadero, San Pedrito, and/or Los Cerritos
Todos Santos is a beach/surf town, but surprisingly, not all the beaches in the area are safe for swimming (the waves are just too rough for a pleasant swim). Thankfully, the beaches in Pescadero and Playa Cerritos are much safer and are actually some of the only ones safe for swimming on this part of the Baja California coast. You can also take a surfing lesson at Cerritos beach. Many of them offer lessons and board rentals.
Agricole Cooperativa / Local Organic Market
I got so excited the moment I stepped into Agricole Cooperativa. You can see the beautiful edible garden right away. Every organic vegetable imaginable was available. Plus, some fresh spices and a plentiful wine and beer selection. Their pastries were exceptional. I can easily make a great meal from all of the products that they sell.
Hierbabuena
Hierbabuena was the restaurant Dion mentioned most when he told me about Todos Santos, so I knew I had to try it out. It did not disappoint! Drive down a dusty dirt road a bit out of town, and you’ll eventually run into this beautiful alfresco restaurant that’s surrounded by their kitchen garden.
The setting is so beautiful, encompassed by vegetables and edible flowers. All the employees wear a shirt that says "Gastalo en la cocina...y no en la medicina." It means “Spend it on the kitchen ... and not on medicine.” OMG! I don't know about you but at that moment the exploding head emoji showed up in my mind! How true is that?! I felt at home at that precise moment. Those are my people! We need to spend more time making high-quality food at home instead of eating fast, processed food. Hierbabuena has an extensive menu using herbs and vegetables from their own farm. I ordered a Spring salad with a citrus dressing, and their house guacamole with habanero salsa. Everything tasted fresh and delicious. The waiter highly recommended the caramel coconut flan so I had to try it and of course after I ate it my brain was racing on figuring out how to make it vegan.
Wander and take photos in town and enjoy a paleta
Downtown Todos Santos is primarily a walkable town. You can see many colonial architectures with colorful facades. Back in Todos Santos town, it's so beautiful to just stroll the streets, poke your head into the hotels, take pictures and browse the shops. My friend Alura loves to take photos. She quickly captured colorful street art, and pastel-colored buildings all around. Although Hotel California is one of the iconic buildings in Todos Santos I enjoyed the brick-and-adobe hacienda Todos Santos Inn more. Walking through the hotels felt like a flashback to the sugar cane boom of Todos Santos.
During our walk around town, I saw numerous spots selling these tasty Mexican popsicles. I chose a mango y chile paleta from Rocco’s Nieves Artesanales, but they all looked extra tasty (and there are tons of flavors to choose from, some with fresh fruit within).
Watch a sunset on the beach
Out of all the things to do in Todos Santos, watching a sunset on the beach is an absolute must. I have never seen the sky fired up like that! It was truly a perfect thing to do at the end of the day.
Despite only spending a few nights in Todos Santos, I got a good vibe for this small Mexican town on the tip of the Baja Peninsula. I have a feeling I'll be back for another round or two in the near future. I hope this town will still remain one of Mexico's best-kept secrets.
